Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Here are some pics
I've decided to use a light natural mint green paint (knarloc green highlighted to dehneb stone) for the armour plates and shading with purple wash, then painting the depressions with chardonite granite and a sort of faded pestilent pattern. The detail on the side door was hand sculpted to symbolise that this in fact is a deathguard rhino. a few details have yet to be picked out. Weathering was achieved by stippling scorched earth paint with a spare piece of foam that you find packaged with the blister packs of your minis. Other areas were drybrushed to achieve the appearance of soot. Each of the bolts were picked out by a dot of devlan mud which was trailed downwards. all the metal areas received a coat of scorched brown before being painted with dwarf bronze and mythril silver.
Here is a detailed shot of the Crewman on the top of the Rhino manning the Pintle mounted combi-flamer. I used some left over shoulder pads and a head from a old kit i had. The shoulder pads are forgeworld resin, and the head is a metal piece from the old plague marine havocs boxed set (plague marines with assault weapons.)
Here is one of my favorite parts of this model, the exposed brain of the gunner! So cool!
I'm looking forward to getting this out on the table some time soon.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
There is still a great deal of work left to go into this model however it's shaping up nicely, I'm waiting for some green stuff i ordered to come in the mail (with the help of the ever reliable Amy) before i get to work on the hardcore details and resurfacing of the front.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Another major detail that was completed was the embelishment of the side "pus tank" made from the living nature water bottle, bands have been glued around it to make it look more industrial and less little critter, and an access hatch has been glued onto the top.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
after some work on the side paneling, i've finally managed to finish the wood planks along the sides, as well as adding some more armour plates for the hut supports which i will install later.
Here's a second look at the shape of the structure.
Using a thick plastic card i've outlined the various areas on the model with the large metal strips that can be found in the concept sketch, these just break up the model visually.
Well thats it for now till i get some more done.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Step One: After cleaning and assembling the model prime the model black with short controlled bursts to the front, back, sides and top of the model, allowing each coat to dry before applying another. This allows for better coverage of the model opposed to trying to prime the model in a single attempt. After the model has completely dried, I’ve gone over its entirety in Chardonite Granite with a large brush. I’ve found that if you slightly water down the paint at this stage it allows for greater flow into all the crevices that you might miss otherwise. One part water to every four parts paint should be enough to achieve this.
Step Three: Over the following steps we’re going to apply highlights to the general surface area of the model, this applies to anywhere you would like to appear green on the finished models. To get the best results, use the flat side of your brush and stroke perpendicular to the bristles along the detail of the model. The first highlight consists of three parts Knarloc Green, to one part Rotting Flesh. This first highlight will cover the majority of the surface area on the model, paying particular attention to any areas of exposed flesh, which will be highlighted to a near white over this process.
Step Five: With a more selective highlight paint the raised areas and edges from Step four with a mix of one part Gnarloc Green to One part Rotting Flesh.
Step Seven: With a mix of one part rotting flesh and one part skull white pick out the final detail of the fleshy areas and head, giving them an almost white hue.
Step Eight: Using Laviathan Purple trace the recesses in the armour making sure to have a controlled flow from your brush preventing accidental coverage or pooling. This is one of the steps that allows for more artistic freedom in the painting of the model so experiment with various amounts of wash in different areas, you can even try using weathering techniques to “bruise” the armour a bit. The purple will really contrast with the green so use this to give a visual break between the various plates of armour.
Step Ten: Paint any Tubing or hosing in Fenris Grey. This may look at little out of place at the moment, it will receive a coat of Bedab Black wash later in the tutorial shading it amply.
Step Twelve: Paint all areas of bone Bleached Bone, in this case I’ve also painted the raisted edges of the gunstock with bleached bone as well to accentuate the wood grain.
Step Thirteen: Give an liberal wash of Devlin Mud to all areas of bone, wood and metal. This will take the bright edge off the metal and deepen the shadows in the bone and wood.
Step Sixteen: Details! Brighten up the metal a bit by applying Mythril Silver to studs and sharp edges on the model. The eye was then painted by applying a dot of warlock purple then highlighted up towards the center to a near white.
And there you have it another Plague Marine ready for the Tabletop!